The Dragon Outer Jacket (Longgua)

Garment category

The *longgua*, or dragon outer jacket, was a garment worn over a robe within the Qing system of festive attire. It differed in length and use from the robe beneath it. For the empress and women of specified palace ranks, dragon jackets and dragon robes were related components but not interchangeable names for the same object.

The Palace Museum's study of the empress's ceremonial clothing identifies her festive ensemble as including a festive crown, dragon outer jacket, dragon robe and court beads appropriate to the occasion. Festive dress was generally associated with ordinary court events and less solemn festivals, whereas formal court attire was employed for sacrificial and major ceremonial purposes. A formal female ensemble could include court skirt, court robe and outer court jacket; a court jacket should therefore not automatically be called a dragon festive jacket.

Object-based interpretation

The materials, colours, placement of roundels and wearer entitlements varied according to rank and period and must be checked against contemporary regulations and surviving catalogued garments. Extant textiles may have suffered damage or undergone restoration. Useful evidence includes garment length, sleeve form, fastening arrangement, embroidery and provenance. As a material object, the *longgua* illuminates palace hierarchy, silk manufacture and the combining of garments. Its name does not imply that the wearer was the emperor himself.

For related historical context and vocabulary, consult Festive Dress (Jifu) in the Qing Dynasty.

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